It has been quite a week since my last update. I have hit all kinds of milestones. The day I left Erwin was my one month anniversary on the trail. I thought it was fairly appropriate that I was once again leaving a town on that day. Also this week I crossed the 400 mile mark (I'm currently sitting at around 460 in Damascus I think) and as the title of today's post suggests I made North Carolina and Tennessee my second and third states bagged by moving on into Virginia. Now I'm facing more than 500 miles of VA terrain until I get to claim another. For those of you who don't know Virginia has more of the AT than any other single state. It actually contains about a quarter of the trail all by itself. Oh, and I almost forgot I also did my biggest single day this week at 22.2 miles. But enough about milestones and onto what actually happened this week. Unfortunately, the first day back on the trail after Erwin was pretty hard for me. It started out with some very pretty woods along a stream, but I started getting really tired shortly after I actually started heading uphill. I was actually kind of wiped by the time I stopped for lunch, where I discovered the gluten-free waffles that were to be my bread for the week had started to get moldy. Awesome. I don't think I got the right combination of calories that lunch because I only got more sluggish as the day went on, and I actually had to cat nap on the side of Unaka Mountain just to make it up. That was to date the only day I really didn't feel like being out there. The only day that I found to be really tough. On the other hand the top of Unaka was very pretty, with a lot of snow still on the ground among some very imposing conifers. That night I ended at Cherry Gap shelter with Waffle, Tapper, Dre, Chicago, Ziplock and Nitro, Frito, Silver, and Yorkie. Fortunately, the next day was a lot better. I had slept like the dead and was thus full of energy. Also, the day just seemed right it was breezy and sunny and I knocked out miles pretty easily in the morning. The afternoon was quite a bit tougher due to the fact that I was climbing Roan Mountain which was more or less straight up and still had a good amount of ice on it. Even that wasn't really enough to daunt me however. I was just happy to be out. Incidentally, upon summitting I learned there had once been a hotel for rich people up there in the early 1900's. What a cool idea. I can't even imagine what that must have been like. I imagine they thought they were roughing it up there. I must say though the idea of having the surroundings with a little warmth at night did sound somewhat appealing. The sign up there said that hotel actually had a golf course at the hotel. I have no idea where it might have gone. Anyway, I spent that night at Roan High Knob shelter which is the highest shelter on the AT. It was actually a little cabin. It had four walls and a door. We didn't know what was going on, but it was quite welcome and I imagine it would have been more so if the weather was worse. I spent that night with Frito, Silver, Yorkie, Mr. Easy, and No Problem (sans goat). The next day started out promising enough. There was some beautiful mist and clouds rolling through the mountains that made for what I think will be some very nice pictures. However, I was so focused on this scenery that I missed the turn when the trail split. Thats right folks my amazing sense of direction and I got rather lost. I ended up going on what turned out to be the Grassy Ridge Trail about a mile and half out of my way, which in turn cost me an hour and a half or better. I was not a happy man. I think my swearing was likely reverberating through the valleys for the rest of the day. As I result I ended up taking lunch at Over Mountain Shelter, several miles earlier than I wanted too. Over Mountain is a pretty cool shelter however, its a old barn that has been converted and it sits in a very nice little valley. I would imagine that its a drafty place to spend the night though. Anyway, after that it was up and over Little Hump and Hump Mountains and wouldn't you know it, rain started just as I was leaving the shelter. This rain turned fairly serious as I was crossing Hump Mountain to the point where I was starting to get a bit nervous, but fortunatley nothing came of it. I wish I had been able to appreciate those mountains a bit more. They had some nice views and their terrain was kind of unique. The rocks, trees and grass on them made me feel like I was crossing a plain in Africa, except..you know...more vertically. The rain continued for the rest of the day but I crashed at Mountain's Rest Hostel that night so it wasn't a big deal. I also thoroghly enjoyed the Ben and Jerry's I ate that night as well as the company of Yorkie, Stealth Blew, Nobo Hobo, Dorothy & Toto, Frito, No Problem, and Mr. Easy. The next day was thankfully much drier and more direct in route (though I did lose the trail early on and had to be called back by Yorkie, go me). There were some very pretty sights that day. We passed Jones' Falls which was quite a wonderful waterfall and I tried to kill myself by climbing a bit to get a better location for a picture. Fortunately, I did not succeed. Shortly after that we walked along the Elk River which seemed fairly idyllic in the heat and sunshine. I think I would very much like to go back and camp there sometime when I can hang around for a while. Yorkie and I ate lunch at the brand new Mountaineer Falls Shelter which was quite excellent and then pushed onto Moreland Gap Shelter for the evening. As the sun was going down The Owl showed up with a dog who had apparently followed him from the hostel he had stayed at the night before. He left that dog with some sectioners who were also staying at the shelter to return on their walk south the next day. I must say I kind of freaked out on the dog when it wouldn't stop barking in the night, but what can I say I was tired. Yorkie thinks I scared the section hikers, but I think he exaggerates. Next morning I knocked out about 8 like it wasn't even there and got to look at another very pretty waterfall, Laurel Falls. Incidentally the entirety of the Laurel Fork River that I have seen is really pretty. I would like to hike around it some more if I ever get the chance. While taking a long lunch I thought I discovered that I had lost my money and ID. This turned out to fortunately not be true but it sort of tainted the rest of my day nonetheless. As a result pretty much all I remember from that afternoon was a lot of uphill until arriving at some fairly spectacular trail magic on the backside of Lake Watauga. This particular trail magic was run by the wonderful former hikers Dead Bear and Moonbeam. I ended up camping there even though I was about a mile from my goal for the night. It simply looked like too much fun to move on. That evening was spent with Yorkie, Beat Box, Bus Driver and Secret Lover, MA, Marshall, Tattoo, Drip Dry, Dead Bear and Moonbeam, Mr. Easy, No Problem, Twiglet, and One Third. It was a very surreal evening. I don't think I can fully express the feeling that was around that night but just to give a general idea some of the events were as follows: three hikers mooning the party on the other side of the lake, the threat of possible police arrival (turned out to be nothing), a trail runner who had stopped to talk coming back later that evening with a keg IN A KAYAK, and lastly but certainly not least a drunk guy riding out of the dark on a horse at about 10 o' clock to hang out with us for the rest of night. Oh and I almost forgot the Karaoke chorus of Roxanne performed poorly by myself, Bus Driver, No Problem and I'm not sure who else. Like I said it was quite a night. I pushed out early from that site the next morning and had a very pretty walk along the lake as the sun was rising. There were several good climbs that morning, but I took about 2 hours for lunch and a nap, and after that the day was a breeze. Almost all of it was completely flat ridgerunning, which I consequently really enjoy. You can throw down miles like they are nothing. That was incidentally my big 22 mile day. I spent that night with Terrapin Flyer, Granite, Yorkie, and Beat Box. Yorkie and the Box didn't show up until it was basically dark, I really hadn't thought they were coming. I also had the pleasure of having a really good Crew chat with Granite, who as it turned out was an oarsman for UMass. I honestly don't have much to say about the next day because I was more or less focused on getting to Damascus and nothing particularly interesting happened beyond moving into Virginia. So there it is. I'm here in Damascus waiting to see if the weather is going to turn nasty and prepping to head back out tomorrow. Thanks for tuning in. Until next time.
-The Breadless Horseman
PS- Since the post with the link to the Columbia Center for Celiac Research has rolled over, I think I will post it again here for any newcomers. http://www.celiacdiseasecenter.columbia.edu
Tuesday, April 24, 2007
Monday, April 16, 2007
The Much Awaited Food Post
Hello all,
I know I just posted but I just remembered I had been told to put up something about the food I have been eating and how that has been going. The food has been going fantastically. For dinner I have been eating everything from Chicken and Sausage Jambolaya, to Creamy Pumpkin Pasta, to Caribbean Black Beans and Rice. However, I would have to say that my current favorite dinner is Turkey Spaghetti, both because its tasty and I think it also rehydrates the most effectively (the Jambolaya is a close second though). Lunches usually consist of more snacky type stuff, but it is all very satisfying. I frequently have cheese with rice bran crackers, or Glutino pretzels w/ peanut butter (this is unexpectedly awesome), usually coupled with some dried fruit and some trail mix, or jerky or some such. The dried fruit incidentally is key. Dehydrated pineapple is my treat for the day. It's like eating candy it's so good. Breakfast is usually a simple affair of some gluten-free granola or hudson bay bars (gluten-free oats, peanuts, raisins, and honey) with a bag or some kind of nuts, though occasionally I make some quinoa flakes with Carnation instant breakfast in it. I do actually have these meals, but in truth I don't really stop eating. Whenever I stop I try to munch on some trail mix or part of a bar (I've been using ThinkThin, ThinkGreen, and Raw Revolution, and occasionally a Snickers). You don't really notice in normal life but out here I really do feel like I function better if I stay fueled. I have asked Mom if she will put up some of the recipes for the dinners for anyone who might want them, so hopefully that might be posted soon, but before I go I'm going to leave my personal trail mix combination which I think is rather amazing. Mix togethor one part each of the following ingredients:
Almonds
cashews
Honey roasted peanuts
raisins
craisins
Dark Chocolate M&M's
not exactly fancy cooking but its damn good gorp. Anyway thats all for a while.
-The Breadless Horseman
I know I just posted but I just remembered I had been told to put up something about the food I have been eating and how that has been going. The food has been going fantastically. For dinner I have been eating everything from Chicken and Sausage Jambolaya, to Creamy Pumpkin Pasta, to Caribbean Black Beans and Rice. However, I would have to say that my current favorite dinner is Turkey Spaghetti, both because its tasty and I think it also rehydrates the most effectively (the Jambolaya is a close second though). Lunches usually consist of more snacky type stuff, but it is all very satisfying. I frequently have cheese with rice bran crackers, or Glutino pretzels w/ peanut butter (this is unexpectedly awesome), usually coupled with some dried fruit and some trail mix, or jerky or some such. The dried fruit incidentally is key. Dehydrated pineapple is my treat for the day. It's like eating candy it's so good. Breakfast is usually a simple affair of some gluten-free granola or hudson bay bars (gluten-free oats, peanuts, raisins, and honey) with a bag or some kind of nuts, though occasionally I make some quinoa flakes with Carnation instant breakfast in it. I do actually have these meals, but in truth I don't really stop eating. Whenever I stop I try to munch on some trail mix or part of a bar (I've been using ThinkThin, ThinkGreen, and Raw Revolution, and occasionally a Snickers). You don't really notice in normal life but out here I really do feel like I function better if I stay fueled. I have asked Mom if she will put up some of the recipes for the dinners for anyone who might want them, so hopefully that might be posted soon, but before I go I'm going to leave my personal trail mix combination which I think is rather amazing. Mix togethor one part each of the following ingredients:
Almonds
cashews
Honey roasted peanuts
raisins
craisins
Dark Chocolate M&M's
not exactly fancy cooking but its damn good gorp. Anyway thats all for a while.
-The Breadless Horseman
Sorry, No Pictures Again
I'm back again. Unfortunately, I'm in a library so I have no good way of uploading pictures. Sorry. However, I certainly do have more to report. When last we spoke I was staying in Waynesville with the always wonderful Burt and Carol Smith. They dropped me off again at Waterville School Road at about one o' clock on Easter sunday after a pretty darn good church service and a rather amazing Easter lunch of Cajun shrimp among other things. I will say it was a bit harder leaving Waynesville than Fontana. They fed me entirely too well. Anyway, I think I did about 8 miles that day to stop at Groundhog Creek Shelter. It was a pretty easy day and a nice reintroduction to the trail. Even better, there were quite a few people to share the evening with that night. I found myself once again in company with M&M, Sniper, Yorkie (The Yorkshire Pudding), BeatBox, Blue Bell and Tree, Bocefus, and EZ Doesit. I also made the aquaintance of Willing and Able (a couple), Bag Lady, Thunder, and Dozer. The shelter however, was a piece of crap, the sleeping platform was very short and rather warped. Fortunately, there was lots of good tenting space. We had a good time around the fire that night, we played a couple of mind teasers (my Camp Grier people will be happy to know that I pulled out My World and My Grandmother Likes Coffee but she Doesn't Like Tea, but we never got to Johnny Woops, also Yorkie is another Camp Person so knew all the ones I did too) and we had some good conversation. Among the topics we discussed were the best techniques for doing one's business in the woods. I immediatly expressed my disdain for leaves (I don't care what you say, they DO NOT WORK!) and also mentioned my buddy Will's thoughts on using his hand when he was in NOLS. There was some talk back and forth about this, but I think Yorkie made the most creative suggestion, that of using a live squirrel and its nicely bushy tail. At the very least it would make for an exciting trip to the bathroom. The next day we did about 12 to Walnut Mtn. Shelter which we once again disdained in favor of camping, really the shelter was horrible. That day however, we crossed over Max Patch which offered some pretty good views and quite a bit of wind. We were however, teased by a sign for Trail Magic which was no longer there. The next day I was last out of Camp (I'm pretty slow in the mornings), and I honestly don't remember much about the hike other than eating all of the lunch and snack food I had left when I stopped for my mid-day meal. I made it into Hot Springs by mid-afternoon and got one of the last two beds at Elmer's Hostel which was set up in an old house that reminded me very much of my Grandmother's house in Winnsboro. My room was actually over the garage. I had to climb a ladder through a trap door to get up to it. Very cool. Mostly Hot Springs was a sort of normal stop in town, but I did go over and spend an hour in the actual Hot Spring with Yorkie and Beat Box. It was pretty wonderful, I don't know what else to say about that. Yorkie and I left Hot Springs around 1:30 and did 10 miles to Spring Mtn Shelter. On the way out we came across No Problem set up for the night at a little stealth camping spot by himself. Well, by himself except for the goat that he bought in Hot Springs. I don't know how I forgot to mention this, but yes this guy bought a goat to walk with him on the trail. Awesome. Unfortunately, the goat is gone now, I don't know why I just know it is. Anyway, also on the way we had to walk over a highway overpass and I tried to get an upcoming eighteen wheeler to blow his air horn. He didn't. Jerk. I think from now on I'll just carry a sign that says, "Honk if you love AT hikers." Maybe that will work better. Anyway, about four miles before we got to the shelter it started to rain and blow quite hard, so we suited up and pushed on. By the time we reached the shelter it was more just mist and wind, but whoever put the shelter up faced it directly into the wind. Awesome. This was an unacceptable situation for me, so Yorkie and I rigged up his tent's rainfly and my tent into an almost total wind block for the shelter. Granted all the rope made it a little hard to go in and out, but Yorkie, Sniper (who was also there), and I were very snug and dry. I was very proud. The next morning broke dry, and surprisingly warm. We did about 15 that day to the Jerry Cabin shelter, where a half used bottle of Maple Syrup waited for us (PACK OUT YOUR TRASH!). We were planning on doing about 7 to a shelter and stopping for lunch. Our plans were changed however, when we found a sign directing us to the how of two former hikers, Hercules and Fal (Free at Last), for some outstanding Trail Magic. They served me some delicious Cuban Picadillo and a Banana Split the size of my head. I was quite full (yet somehow about two hours later I found plenty of room to eat my lunch). Unexpectedly, our two hosts also used their Magic to encourage us in our faith, or to find the truth while on the trail if we were lacking. I do not always approve of evangelism of this kind, but I thought it was done very well. They seemed very open minded and concerned rather than over-zealous and scary. I can't really imagine anyone being upset by it. If Hercules and Fal are reading this, thank you for what you are doing. My ankle was bothering me that day which wasn't so much fun when we were crossing this ridgeline that was all rock and almost all two or three steps straight up followed by two or three straight down. I made it to the shelter anyway, and had a colder than anticipated night with Yorkie, Sniper, and Chill Out. Yorkie and I did another 15 or 16 mile day to Hogback Ridge Shelter the next morning. It was a pretty easy walk except for one long up hill section, but I kept thinking I was on the wrong trail because it followed a logging road for so long and was so flat. I didn't know what was going on. That night Yorkie and I thought we were going to have the shelter to ourselves but around 7:00 Dre and Tapper showed up after having put in a 20 some mile day from Little Laurel Shelter. That night passed without much incident. Beat Box showed up unexpectedly around 8:30 the next morning, he had been pushing hard from Hot Springs, and was stopping for water after having camped about 2 miles back. I left first of the three of us and was very unhappy about 4 miles later when I realized I had knocked off my sunglasses when I removed my hat about a mile into the trail. I swore quite loudly. However, things got better when Yorkie returned them to me at lunch. He had seen them sitting in the trail. Before lunch however, I crossed Big Bald which I thought had much better views than Max Patch, and was even windier to boot. There were gusts of probably 50 mph. It was pushing me around. Anyway, the rest of the day passed without much incident, it rained pretty heavily that night and we knocked out the 6 miles to Erwin the next moring. That is where I am currently, staying and Uncle Johnny's Hostel just off the trail. It was pretty great last night, it was snowing a ton outside, but we were roasting in the bunkhouse watching The Fugitive, with a wood stove fire burning in the corner. I may be overstating, although I don't think so, but that combined with the Snickers I was eating was fairly close to heaven. Thats all for this time.
-The Breadless Horseman
PS- To everyone who has been reading and posting thanks so much for your attention. I wait for your comments at least as much as you wait for mine, and if there is anything you want to know that I haven't been telling, let me know and I'll do what I can. To the person who asked about PA I don't really know when I'll be there cause its kind of far down the road, but when I'm getting near I'll try to remember to mention it.
-The Breadless Horseman
PS- To everyone who has been reading and posting thanks so much for your attention. I wait for your comments at least as much as you wait for mine, and if there is anything you want to know that I haven't been telling, let me know and I'll do what I can. To the person who asked about PA I don't really know when I'll be there cause its kind of far down the road, but when I'm getting near I'll try to remember to mention it.
Saturday, April 7, 2007
The Second Half
Hello again,
As I said in the last post I had rather too much material to relate in just one entry, so if you have been keeping up with the blog the last post is new as of today as well. Picking up from that entry I actually pushed straight from the Trail Magic at Stecoah Gap to Fontana Dam and the accompanying Village the very next day. It was sort of weird not really being out in the woods for a couple of nights in a row. I had been planning to pick up a mail drop in Fontana that Saturday and then move straight on into the Smokies the next morning. Unfortunately, there had been some confusion with my drop and as a result I ended up stuck in Fontana until Monday when the post office reopened. This was quite frustrating for me at the time. I really hadn't wanted to spend more time in civilization right then, but it certainly couldn't have been considered all bad. I got a hotel room the first night with M&M, Swampfoot, and The Sauce Master. We all ate an excellent dinner that evening. I personally had a New York Strip with mashed potatoes and some very tasty cooked spinach. This was accompanied by a pretty good Cabernet and followed by splitting one of the best Creme Brulees I have ever had with M&M. It was kind of surreal. To backtrack a little bit, when we checked in we definitely got a kind of "heavens, filthy hikers, what are they doing here" kind of vibe off of the lady at the front desk. As a result we decided to go into the rather nice hotel restaurant in full on skeez mode. None of us showered or changed clothes, we went in like we had just come off the trail. Like is said it was kind of surreal but it was also very satisfying in a way and we had a very good time. Upon returning to our room we realized exactly how bad all our gear stank because after about two hours the room reeked even to our noses. We had a pretty good laugh about that, among other things. The next day was pretty dull, mostly absorbed by doing laundry and wandering around Fontana Village and the roommates changed from Swamp and Sauce to Chico and Bowleg. Next morning I got my food as soon as I could and got the shuttle to trail straight away. I was seriously ready to hike. I was completely focused on hiking, all I wanted to do was knock out miles. Most people I talked to that day were heading for Mollee's ridge about 12 miles from where I started my hike and 9 from the beginning of the Smokies, I finished at Spence Field about 6 miles further on. Because of this readiness to hike I think the mix up with my mail was something of a blessing in disguise. I had started to think I missed civilization a bit. Being in town for a day and a half quickly disabused of that notion and made me miss the woods something fierce. I think the Smokies were that much better as a result. I spent that night with Granbeau, EZ Doesit, 3 section hikers, and 3 (odd as it sounds) cowboys who had been riding all day. Next morning I was up over Rocky Top and Thunderhead Mountain before I knew it, but it was a great view from the bald on Rocky Top. There was some very oddly shadowed light that made me just want to sit and watch the sky. Incidentally, this was the 3rd of April. It was another wonderful day, but completely different from the one before it. Instead of just pounding out miles I really took my time, I stopped and took lots of pictures and really took in the scenery. It was wonderful. I finished that night at Double Spring Shelter; with M&M, Bowleg, Bocefus, a father and son on vacation, and 3 section hikers, happier and more excited than I think I had been since beginning the trail. I don't know where all of it came from but some was just the change of atmosphere in the Smokies. Everything was greener and there were huge patches of little wildflowers growing everywhere. It was just a wonderful place to be. We got a huge thunderstorm at Double Spring that included a not-insignificant amount of hail, which I can assure you is very loud when it is hitting a tin roof mere inches above one's head. I left in the morning in a very heavy fog, unfortunate since it meant I couldn't see a thing from Clingman's Dome, the tallest point on the trail. In the end though it wasn't that big a deal, I quite enjoyed the walk anyway. The way the mist and rain set off the trail in that area was quite compelling. The mist burned off by midday in time for me to walk a couple of hours in the sun and meet a wonderful man named Ron Byers at Newfound Gap, for a personally delivered mail drop. I was also greeted at this roadside stop by some unexpected trail magic run by the wonderful former hikers Papa Smurf, Flame, and Big Red who provided me with a wonderfully Gluten-free hamburger. Thanks guys. I finished that day at a very windy Icewater Spring shelter with M&M, Bowleg, Salty Dog, Chill Out, Bocefus, and Sandwich, ate some dinner and spent most of my evening in my sleeping bag waiting on a very chilly evening.
Chilly doesn't even begin to cover how cold the morning was. One never really understands exactly how cold 18 degrees is until you can't go into a nice warm building to get away from it. When I left that morning I had on almost every stitch of clothing I had with me, although it wasn't long before I shed the rain jacket, outer gloves, and neoprene face mask. It had snowed a bit in the night and everything was crusted with a beautiful white frost. I would have taken a lot more pictures if I wouldn't have had to expose more skin to the cold. As it was I just had to appreciate the beauty of the day by myself. It was funny, there was one point where the wind was blowing snow in a particularly fierce fashion where I was wondering what the hell I was doing there and thanking God I was lucky enough to be where I was at the exact same moment. I got even luckier a bit later on. I was just cresting a ridge line when the clouds and snow parted and suddenly I could see everything. The sun was out, the sky was bright blue, I could see all the way down into the valleys and over the mountains on both sides, I could see the snow on all the trees and how it stopped at lower elevations. It was breathtaking. It was like being on top of the world. I know no other way to describe it. The rest of the day was great but comparatively without event (other than the .4 mile dash to use a privy, and the fact that I did about 20 miles that day.) I crashed at Cosby Knob Shelter that night with Sublime, Sniper, Salty Dog, Vanilla Gorilla, and Bowleg and I pushed on into civilization the next morning which wasn't quite as cold as the one before it. I am now sitting comfortably and well fed in the home of Burt and Carol Smith in Waynesville, NC getting ready to head out again tomorrow for whatever the trail has to offer. The pictures I'm leaving this time are of one of the wildflowers I spoke of, myself up on Rocky Top, me with Big Red, Flame, and Papa Smurf (right to left), and part of the view I spoke of on the ridgeline after Icewater Spring. I hope these posts continue to be interesting. I'm going to put up one about my food maybe later on tonight (I'm really trying to catch up) and hopefully I'll get some pictures of it and my cooking process soon. Later on.
-The Breadless Horseman
As I said in the last post I had rather too much material to relate in just one entry, so if you have been keeping up with the blog the last post is new as of today as well. Picking up from that entry I actually pushed straight from the Trail Magic at Stecoah Gap to Fontana Dam and the accompanying Village the very next day. It was sort of weird not really being out in the woods for a couple of nights in a row. I had been planning to pick up a mail drop in Fontana that Saturday and then move straight on into the Smokies the next morning. Unfortunately, there had been some confusion with my drop and as a result I ended up stuck in Fontana until Monday when the post office reopened. This was quite frustrating for me at the time. I really hadn't wanted to spend more time in civilization right then, but it certainly couldn't have been considered all bad. I got a hotel room the first night with M&M, Swampfoot, and The Sauce Master. We all ate an excellent dinner that evening. I personally had a New York Strip with mashed potatoes and some very tasty cooked spinach. This was accompanied by a pretty good Cabernet and followed by splitting one of the best Creme Brulees I have ever had with M&M. It was kind of surreal. To backtrack a little bit, when we checked in we definitely got a kind of "heavens, filthy hikers, what are they doing here" kind of vibe off of the lady at the front desk. As a result we decided to go into the rather nice hotel restaurant in full on skeez mode. None of us showered or changed clothes, we went in like we had just come off the trail. Like is said it was kind of surreal but it was also very satisfying in a way and we had a very good time. Upon returning to our room we realized exactly how bad all our gear stank because after about two hours the room reeked even to our noses. We had a pretty good laugh about that, among other things. The next day was pretty dull, mostly absorbed by doing laundry and wandering around Fontana Village and the roommates changed from Swamp and Sauce to Chico and Bowleg. Next morning I got my food as soon as I could and got the shuttle to trail straight away. I was seriously ready to hike. I was completely focused on hiking, all I wanted to do was knock out miles. Most people I talked to that day were heading for Mollee's ridge about 12 miles from where I started my hike and 9 from the beginning of the Smokies, I finished at Spence Field about 6 miles further on. Because of this readiness to hike I think the mix up with my mail was something of a blessing in disguise. I had started to think I missed civilization a bit. Being in town for a day and a half quickly disabused of that notion and made me miss the woods something fierce. I think the Smokies were that much better as a result. I spent that night with Granbeau, EZ Doesit, 3 section hikers, and 3 (odd as it sounds) cowboys who had been riding all day. Next morning I was up over Rocky Top and Thunderhead Mountain before I knew it, but it was a great view from the bald on Rocky Top. There was some very oddly shadowed light that made me just want to sit and watch the sky. Incidentally, this was the 3rd of April. It was another wonderful day, but completely different from the one before it. Instead of just pounding out miles I really took my time, I stopped and took lots of pictures and really took in the scenery. It was wonderful. I finished that night at Double Spring Shelter; with M&M, Bowleg, Bocefus, a father and son on vacation, and 3 section hikers, happier and more excited than I think I had been since beginning the trail. I don't know where all of it came from but some was just the change of atmosphere in the Smokies. Everything was greener and there were huge patches of little wildflowers growing everywhere. It was just a wonderful place to be. We got a huge thunderstorm at Double Spring that included a not-insignificant amount of hail, which I can assure you is very loud when it is hitting a tin roof mere inches above one's head. I left in the morning in a very heavy fog, unfortunate since it meant I couldn't see a thing from Clingman's Dome, the tallest point on the trail. In the end though it wasn't that big a deal, I quite enjoyed the walk anyway. The way the mist and rain set off the trail in that area was quite compelling. The mist burned off by midday in time for me to walk a couple of hours in the sun and meet a wonderful man named Ron Byers at Newfound Gap, for a personally delivered mail drop. I was also greeted at this roadside stop by some unexpected trail magic run by the wonderful former hikers Papa Smurf, Flame, and Big Red who provided me with a wonderfully Gluten-free hamburger. Thanks guys. I finished that day at a very windy Icewater Spring shelter with M&M, Bowleg, Salty Dog, Chill Out, Bocefus, and Sandwich, ate some dinner and spent most of my evening in my sleeping bag waiting on a very chilly evening.
Chilly doesn't even begin to cover how cold the morning was. One never really understands exactly how cold 18 degrees is until you can't go into a nice warm building to get away from it. When I left that morning I had on almost every stitch of clothing I had with me, although it wasn't long before I shed the rain jacket, outer gloves, and neoprene face mask. It had snowed a bit in the night and everything was crusted with a beautiful white frost. I would have taken a lot more pictures if I wouldn't have had to expose more skin to the cold. As it was I just had to appreciate the beauty of the day by myself. It was funny, there was one point where the wind was blowing snow in a particularly fierce fashion where I was wondering what the hell I was doing there and thanking God I was lucky enough to be where I was at the exact same moment. I got even luckier a bit later on. I was just cresting a ridge line when the clouds and snow parted and suddenly I could see everything. The sun was out, the sky was bright blue, I could see all the way down into the valleys and over the mountains on both sides, I could see the snow on all the trees and how it stopped at lower elevations. It was breathtaking. It was like being on top of the world. I know no other way to describe it. The rest of the day was great but comparatively without event (other than the .4 mile dash to use a privy, and the fact that I did about 20 miles that day.) I crashed at Cosby Knob Shelter that night with Sublime, Sniper, Salty Dog, Vanilla Gorilla, and Bowleg and I pushed on into civilization the next morning which wasn't quite as cold as the one before it. I am now sitting comfortably and well fed in the home of Burt and Carol Smith in Waynesville, NC getting ready to head out again tomorrow for whatever the trail has to offer. The pictures I'm leaving this time are of one of the wildflowers I spoke of, myself up on Rocky Top, me with Big Red, Flame, and Papa Smurf (right to left), and part of the view I spoke of on the ridgeline after Icewater Spring. I hope these posts continue to be interesting. I'm going to put up one about my food maybe later on tonight (I'm really trying to catch up) and hopefully I'll get some pictures of it and my cooking process soon. Later on.
-The Breadless Horseman
After far too much time...
Sorry about the long delay folks. I apologize for going almost two weeks without an update. On the plus side it means I have a lot to talk about if I can remember everything. When last we left out brave hero, I believe I was spending a partial day in Franklin. Most people ended up spending the night there, but for some reason I was really feeling like moving on that night and if there is one thing I have picked up thus far, it is that if you feel like walking you really ought to walk. Otherwise you might feel like you are too behind schedule to stop when you want too. Anyway, I hit the trail around 4:30 feeling excited, not least because I had just found out my cousin and his wife had a baby! (congrats Burg and Ashley!) Right after I stepped back from the highway I came to a really beautiful little creek crossing. There was a little waterfall with a footbridge crossing over it. It was the kind of thing I had really looked forward to seeing on the trail but not exactly where I had expected to find it. This is a phenomenon that I have noted a couple of times while being out here, sometimes there are some really beautiful bits of nature just moments from major aspects of "civilization". I wonder how many people in those areas even know these places exist? I was headed for the Siler Bald shelter that night which was only a few miles up the trail and on the way there it suddenly occurred to me that there probably wouldn't be anyone there because it is so close to town. This wouldn't have been the end of the world but I think it would have been at least mildly unsettling seeing as how it would have been my first night out without company. However, Scooby was at the shelter when I arrived but as it turned out we camped out up on the bald with Beat Box (formerly Airic) and The Unknown Couple as I have taken to calling them (I have never really been able to get their names and they kind of keep to themselves). The view from Siler's was exceptional; one of the most complete and multi-directional that I have had the fortune to come across. The next day I was intending to head for Cold Spring Shelter with Beat Box, a shelter I am intimately familiar with as the point where all Camp Grier AT groups eat lunch on their first day on the trail. It was about 12 miles from Siler's Bald. As it turned out however, I was there by 2:30 so I took an hour siesta to air out my gear and then pushed on the remaining 6 miles or so to Wesser Bald Shelter. It was a city. When I arrived there were probably 8 tents set up around the site and there was only one spot left in the shelter which I happily took off the market. That night I met Bluebell, Tree, Kiwi, Flint, and Jubilee. There were many others but those in the tents didn't really come down to the shelters. The mice were active that night, but I didn't sleep too badly in spite of that and some serious snoring from nearby. The next day dawned rather gray and threatening, and sure enough we got some rain on the few miles down to the Nantahala Outdoor Center. I spent a relaxing day at the NOC, eating, wathcing the river, and doing laundry but it wasn't particularly interesting so I'll move on from there. From NOC I was planning on pushing straight through the Smokies without pausing in civilization. Its funny how the trail can change ones plans. About two miles short of my intended destination for that day Scooby (who I was walking with) and I came across a fairly elaborate Trail Magic at Stecoah Gap run by Bare Bear and Jellybean. It was very nice and they had Dr. Thunder which was quite tasty but I was still waffling on whether to push on or camp for the night with the dozen or so other hikers who had been snared. Then they brought out the Margeritas and I made up my mind. It was fun hanging out with everyone that night. It is, however, fortunate that I already had a trail name upon my arrival or I think I would have come away with a somewhat less flattering one. Upon unloading my pack I discovered that a bird had crapped upon one of my flip-flops while I was walking. My announcement to this effect was greeted with much laughter and the suggestion from Jellybean that I should now go by the handle S***flop. No thank you Jellybean, I believe I will stick with The Breadless Horseman. Anyway, I realize this is becoming a rather long winded post so I am going to split the rest of my unposted info into another post a little later on this evening. So now I will leave you with a couple of pictures of the view from Siler's Bald and myself with M&M enjoying some Margeritas. Enjoy.
-The Breadless Horseman
-The Breadless Horseman
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